Tour Ronde North Face 3792m

July 11, 2013July 27, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / 2 Comments

Another day up the mountains, this time with Alex. We were excited for a couple of days up high with the aim of completing 3 routes, This turned into one because of a few different reasons, but the one we completed was amazing.

Starting up another last bin at the Midi we were aiming for the Perroux hut for another bivi, after helping some English 50 something year old put on his harness and crampons we escorted him down the arete and off to the Cosmiques refuge where he would await his guide, If we were not there who knows what would have happened to him. Before we settled in and started cooking some food we took time to fix the door on the small old hut, this meant digging out some ice, clearing the door way and salvaging some nails, we made that baby wind proof and were chuffed with our refurbishment’s so started cooking some ravioli and noodles, it was the first time I had used the hammer on my axe, not sure if that is its intended purpose!

We were in bed early for a 3am wake up and out by 4am after some coffee, orange juice and a couple of cereal bars. Rapping in to the dark is good fun and we were on the move roped up just after 4.

After a 1hour 15min approach we started heading up the snow slopes with only one team of two ahead who were pitching the north face, We caught them up before the ice and passed them soon after. The conditions were perfect, re-frozen snow at the bottom then neve all the way to nice ice in the middle with good neve on the upper snow field.

We opted to take the left couloir with a longer ice section, this took us higher up the upper snow field and was great fun with a small rock and ice crux at the top. The sun started to come up as we were half way through the ice offering amazing sunrise views down the Vallee Blanche with the sun coming up behind the Dent de Geant.

We were along side the other team at this point as they decided to get out onto the upper snow field as soon as they could, leaving us to have the whole left hand ice couloir to ourselves.

After the tricky moves we were out onto the upper snow slope and heading towards the summit.

After 2 hours of climbing we were on the summit and we sat and enjoyed the views for about 45 minutes whilst Alex looked for his sunglasses unsuccessfully.

After borrowing some goggles from a German Guide we headed back down the East ridge with not enough time or the correct glasses to climb the Entreves traverse which is what we wanted to do after the Ronde. We then headed back to the Helbronner and came back to the Midi, we bailed on our plan to stay at the Torino hut and climb the Dent du Geant the next day as the weather did not look good in the afternoon and I could not afford to be stuck in Italy the following night!

The next day me and Alex went to retrieve our sleeping bags from the Perroux and came back up the Cosmiques arete, we did the round trip Midi to Midi in just over a hour and had great fun in the sun wearing t-shirts!

A great few days in the mountains and I am really pleased to have climbed the North Face of the Tour Ronde, something I have wanted to do for a couple of years and my main objective for this summer.

Thanks to Alex.

Petit Aiguille Vert, Point Lachenal Traverse, Cosmiques Arete

July 3, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / 2 Comments

I have had a busy couple of days in the mountains completing 3 routes in 26 hours, two of which were new to me and two of them I led the whole route.

It all started at 7:30 at Grand Montet lift meeting John Vincent with our skis to go and climb and ski Petit Aiguille Vert, I have looked at this route many times when skiing top ticket and never got round to climbing or skiing it. As it was the first of July we thought it would be a novelty to go ski off the lifts, and seeing that you can almost ski to the mid station we were both excited.

The route goes up the west ridge to the summit and is a good fun route. We didn’t take skins as it is an easy 30 minute walk to the start of the climbing. Our rack consisted of a sling which we used once, it is a very safe and easy route with lots of spines to use as runners.

We were at the top within the hour and the views are amazing. There are a couple of bolts for the rappel and you go down the opposite ridge you came up, with 3 rapps we were over the Bergschrund and back at our skis, we left them half way up as the snow was too hard to have any fun skiing!

Once back at our skis we waited at the top station for Graham and when he arrived we headed down the front face on some very hard July snow. It did soften in places to some nice corn but it was like riding a big groomer and was good fun especially for the 1st of July!

We were back home by 11am and I was already packing for my next route.

I was taking my Girlfriend Katariina on her first alpine adventure and we were aiming to do the Point Lachenal Traverse then sleeping up high then doing the Cosmiques arete first thing in the morning so we had it to ourselves.

We were on the Aiguille du Midi lift by 2pm and heading down to our bivi spot the Perroux hut.

Katsu looking excited on the way to the bivi, with a heavy pack on, with lots of food and water and a sleeping bag.

The hut is a lot nicer than sleeping in a tent and you have less weight to carry, to access it you can climb the very sketchy ladder or down climb from the cosmiques refuge. We also got there first so bagged the window beds with amazing views over the col du midi and all those in tents!

We unpacked our overnight gear and got ready to take on that evenings route, The Point Lachenal Traverse, This is a nice easy route that can be done in less than 3 hours from hut to hut. We went light with only me having a pack on with both our gear in, so Katsu could enjoy here first alpine route with no extra weight.

Leaving the hut/shed was good fun with a 30m hanging rappel down to the snow bank.

It is a short 30 minute approach to the route which was nice as we were heading towards it in the cool evening light at about 5pm, not often you start a route at this time but as we were close to the hut and it was a short one we could do it with plenty of day light to spare.

The route starts up the left hand ridge and follows the ridge towards the Tacul Triangle, there is a snow ridge followed by a small scramble then a short 20m rappel before you cross the second snow ridge which was more exposed.

On the first snow ridge up to the first scramble.

Katsu on the first 20m rappel.

After the second exposed snow ridge you come to the best part of the route, the 45m steep chimny (4a). This was Katsu’s first experience of alpine mixed climbing and coming up second she nailed it, she seemed less phased than I did!

You can pretty much pick any route you want as there were foot steps leading to it all, we chose one which looked challenging but also fun!

Katsu coming up the mixed chimny.

After climbing the chimny you come to the final summit slopes and a short scramble to the summit.

Katariina relaxing on the summit after completing her first alpine route, a nice downhill 30 minute walk back to the hut from here and a chance to eat some food!

Upon returning to the hut we could hear some voices and realised we were not going to have it to ourselves, just as we got there a couple of my friends poked their heads out and I was glad that I knew them as it is very cosy in there! With Alex and Francis in the hut it got very hot, even though it can sleep 8/12 people with just us 4 in I was down to my boxers with my sleeping bag half open, its not very often you can sleep like this at 3500m with a felt blanket as a doorway separating you from the alpine cold wind!

We had our ravioli and were in bed by 10:30 as those boys were up at 2:30 for their route. Waking at this time also gave me a chance to get some night time photos and make bringing my fairly heavy dslr up here worth it!

Looking out of the hut door at Mont Blanc du Tacul and the mountaineers heading up for Mont Blanc at 2am.

From the roof of the Hut looking across the Vallee Blanche towards the Grand Jorasses.

After seeing the boys off at 2am we went back to bed for a few hours and woke at 6:45am. With the Coffee brewing we got ready for our return to the AIguille du Midi top station via the Cosmiques Arete. I climbed this route for the first time last week with Owen so had a good idea of what was in store for us. We left the hut by 7:15 so that we had a good hour head start on anyone coming up from the valley.

The Cosmiques route was very similar to lasts weeks with a few changes, snowfall over the weekend changed the route slightly.

After the initial snow and rock ridge we opted to down climb the first rappel as it was well filled in with snow, this took about the same time as if we had rapped but was good fun.

Katsu down climbing the first rock step. At the second Gendarme we took a different route over one of the rock spines which had a couple of trickier rock moves in and was a nice variation of the traditional route.

Approaching the final rock towards the viewing platform. There is a small 3m rock climb to get to some bolts for a nice belay up the south chimney.

As we were approaching the final chimney one person who was off first bin climbing solo was approaching us but this is the only time we saw anyone on the whole route. The final exit chimney is classic, not too hard but it feels very exposed as you look all the way down to the Cunningham Couloir. I flew up it with Katsu belaying and just below the top she started to follow for the easy first section before I reached the top bolts to set up a belay.

Finally on to the viewing platform of the Aiguille du Midi and we were done, very tired, hot and hungry. Catching the cable car back to town Katsu was very happy with her first Alpine adventure and I was pleased that it went without any difficulties. A great 26 hours in the Mountains and a big thanks to John Vincent and Katariina Maatta.

Cosmiques Arête

June 27, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / 1 Comment

After yesterdays big day I woke up pretty late so only had the afternoon for some climbing. It was still great weather up high so I teamed up with Owen to finally get round to climbing the Cosmiques Arete. This is a very popular route and is so easily accessible from the Aiguille du Midi lift.

This route is a round trip from the Aiguille du midi, down the east ridge and back up the west ridge back to the top station. The guide book says allow 45mins for the approach and 2-3 hours climbing. we did the whole thing in 3 hours, which wasn’t that bad as we did meet a couple of teams, stopped for a sandwich and placed a lot of gear pitching a few of the sections.

The climb starts next to the Cosmiques refuge on the obvious rock and snow ridge leading back up to the Aiguille du Midi. The route was very well travelled so the path was easy to find.

Owen starting up the first snow and rock slopes from the Cosmiques refuge.

There was plenty of places to place gear on this initial slope, it is not essential but the snow was getting very soft by this time, 1:30pm, and we felt safer with some gear in.

There are some very exposed ridges and some great views on offer.

After the first small summit there is a small 20/30m rappel, there is a bolted belay so the rap is fine and quick to set up. It is awkward as there are a few steps on the rappel that you have to climb over with the rope still in your hand.

Following the obvious route you come back around onto the south face then start to climb again back up to the west ridge, this section is also exposed but once again you are rewarded with some great views back down the Chamonix valley and with Mont Blanc behind.

The second rappel is a little trickier, you have to sit in a difficult position to set it up then squeeze yourself through this narrow hole to get down, a prussik is advisable, as you need two hands sometimes!

Owen climbing up the first of the rock crux’s, there are some big foot holes, there are two bolts just above Owen and we set up a belay from here to pitch the next couple of moves.

After a short very exposed traverse you reach the final chimney that leads you to the viewing platform of the Aiguille du Midi. This was the highlight of the climb, nice mixed climbing with plenty of places for gear. It is a challenge climbing with crampons on and is harder than rock boots, you have to rely on your points and trust they will hold!

Looking back down the exit chimney at Owen, he was very hot at this point after deciding to put his down jacket on for some reason!

After climbing back up the ladder to the viewing platform you are done and can walk straight back to the lift que. A classic route that was great fun, will definitely be doing it again.

Contamine-Grisolle, Tacul Ski descent

June 26, 2013June 26, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / 2 Comments

Contamine-Grisolle. II AD. 350m

Initially I wanted to go up and climb this route on the Monday with the intention of skiing powder on the North Face of the Tacul. However when checking the webcams on Monday morning at 6:30am you could see nothing but cloud so we decided to bail on that idea looking at Tuesdays forecast we thought it would be a much better option.

Rising early on Tuesday there was some cloud visable from the valley floor but upon viewing the webcams and seeing no cloud up high I was straight on the phone to Emily and arranged to meet at the Aiguille du Midi at 7:30.

We were at the top by 8:30 after a slight delay and down the arête with our skis on by 8:45.

Skiing from half way down the arête we already had some nice powder turns with just over 6” of fresh snow. Skis on our feet made the approach to the base of the triangle very quick and we had our skis on our back and crampons on by 9am.

The start of the Contamine-Grisolle is on the far left of the Triangle behind the lowest rock spur.

To start there is a 150m 50’ slope to climb before you hit the first rock step and mixed gully.

Emily climbing the lower snow slopes before the first rock step.

The first mixed gully was easy to protect and we moved together up it fairly quickly, we were slower than other groups but they didn’t have 188cm planks of wood on their rucksack, which made negotiating some of the narrow trickier sections of mixed quite a delicate operation.

A couple of hours in and the wind had picked up and it was really cold, struggling to keep my hands warm I was in and out of hot-aches and cursing a lot!

There was a lot of mixed ground in the middle of the climb then a few snow slopes that had changed into bullet hard ice in places, which made moving very precarious and slow going. We tried to place protection as much as we could but there were some places where it was not possible so extra care had to be taken.

The exit mixed gully was knackered, a combination of little or no ice and what was there would break easily or was slushy, this coupled with little protection made the last pitch take a while and we were both pretty tired by this point.

Finally on to the ridgeline and a small mixed climb to the summit slopes.

The wind on these exposed top slopes was blistering and we tried to make a quick pace to get some relief but the altitude and our tiredness made the last 200m very hard. As we had both summated the Tacul in previous weeks we decided to just head down without topping out as by this point it was not looking like we were going to make last bin.

Above the clouds on the summit slopes to Mont-Blanc du Tacul, with Mont Maudit on the left and the Dome de Gouter ahead.

We walked down the the lower ridge of the Tacul before putting our skis on as the snow was heavily wind affected and didn’t make for good skiing.Watching skiers come down the north face of the Tacul on our ascent we could see some great snow and some nice big powder turns, this is what kept us going throughout the climb. The ski down was amazing, and not just for the end of June! Nice powder and so much fresh to be had as only about 3-5 skiers had been down.

We made a quick descent of the Tacul and tried to carry as much speed as we could off the bottom so we had less walking to do back up the arête. It was hard going because of the long hard day we had but we just made it to last bin, a couple minutes late but we were on it!

Thanks to Emily for another fantastic day Climbing and Skiing, and another Epic!

Eugster Diagonal Couloir, Aiguille du Midi North Face

June 18, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / 2 Comments

Back up the mountain again and this time taking on a big one. My initial plan was to do the Midi-Plan traverse with my housemate then we heard there was a lot of snow on it and you have to be early and quick, then plans changed to the Tour Ronde north face with Tom Grant and a friend of his. After discovering that the Panoramic to Helbronner does not run until 9:30 and that would be too late as the isotherm was around 3800m and it would not have refrozen. I then had a text from Ally saying he and his housemate were going to go up the Eugster from first bin. From mid station to the top is over 1500m hight gain and the climb itself is just over 1000m.

I wasn’t keen to start with because it is a seriously committing climb as there is no where to go unless you down climb from where ever you are. That said, it is a ski line in the spring so I knew it wouldn’t be difficult climbing, if you had good conditions.

We got first bin to the Plan D’Aiguille and then headed off on our approach, the guidebook says it takes 1.5 hours and it was spot on, we did have to negotiate some moraines but we were at the start of the route just after 9:30. First bin didn’t leave until 7:45 delayed from it summertime of 7:10. I teamed up with Emily so we could move in two groups of two as Allys friend Francis had also come along for the climb. Those boys had already started up the couloir as they got there a little before us.

We were questioning whether to climb or not because the snow had not refrozen at the bottom and we thought it might be a long slushy climb as a result. Ally and Francis made quick work of the first section so Emily and I thought we should get on with it also. Straight away we ran into a section of ice about 5-10m high and it had running water beneath it and was very hollow and thin. A quick belay over this and then we started storming up the couloir which had nice footsteps in.

A few hundred meters of climbing and we hit another ice band, this one was too dangerous to climb so we headed around it via a small rock band, it was nice to put some protection in so you can have a relaxed rest. Moving up the couloir again after in the nice footsteps we came to the start of the Diagonal. This is usually a rock climbing section of the route in the summer but as there is still so much snow there was only about 10-20m of mixed climbing before we were on the snow slopes of the Diagonal and back onto a traverse to the left bank of the diagonal.

Further up the Diagonal we cam into another rock and ice section, this was hard to protect and it was around midday so it was starting to get very warm with lots of water running down it.

Moving slowly over this problem we were on the final push out of the diagonal and on to the North Face snow slopes with the Aiguille du Midi station in sight. Seeing the lift only made things harder as you can see your goal and we were feeling pretty tired by this point. We slowly plodded up the north face snow slopes stopping every know and then to catch our breath.

Just below the top station there are a couple of big crevasses to work around to reach the arete. We chose the path that traverses between the two. This took us nearly one hour as the snow was very soft and we didn’t want to make a mistake so near to the top of the climb.

Ally snapped a few photos from the viewing platform as he arrived over two hours before us. Here we are just crossing the first crevasse. We carried on the traverse and over the second snow bridge and then up the final few steps to the arete, I was physically and mentally destroyed.

Arriving just after 3pm it had taken us 5.5 hours for the climb and a total of 7 hours for the ascent. I was pleased with this time as I didn’t know if I had the fitness to get up the thing in the first place. It was so nice to sit on the viewing platform in the hot sun and eat my pastries that I carried the whole way up. Getting back to town a hour later and the heat was unbearable, 33’c on some thermometers, No wonder the snow was soft. I think I will be avoiding the Midi North Face for a while but I might go back to take on the Frendo spur sometime in the next couple of months.

Thanks to Emily for the climb and Ally for the photos.

Serac Gully- Tacul Triangle (Attempt)

June 7, 2013June 8, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / Leave a comment

Setting off at 8am with Ally Hurst again, this time it was sunshine all day! First bin up the Midi we were hoping to climb the Serac Gully on the Mont Blanc du Tacul, after Ally saw it looked in good condition a couple days before.

There is now a good sized track down the arete so we made to the start of the climb by 9:30. We then noticed that there were no obvious belays so Ally had to set one up before starting the first pitch, things were looking good.

Ally on the first pitch.

This route is much smaller than the Chere which I climbed with Ally two weeks ago and was a real test of my climbing skills. It was a very narrow gully with thin ice and not much protection, Ally managed to place a few wires, cams and screws in whatever he could find as a lot of the ice was breaking off with one hit of the axe. This resulted in quite a timely climb despite us not actually gaining much height, and me getting pelted with falling ice for most of the climb!

After I came up the first pitch we noticed that the second, crux pitch was looking a little bare higher up, and with a hard move to start I didn’t feel comfortable having a go.

Ally tried to go up, to see how it was and made it up most of the pitch before he decided that it would take too long and it was getting very tricky. He made it up to some cord that was already there with a crab on so we decided to rap back down using that. In the picture below you can see how far he made it!

One 60m rap back down to the snow and we had a nice bit of lunch before heading back up the Midi, as usual I was a bit behind Ally but he did summit Mt Blanc last week so is more acclimatised, my excuse! I finally made it back up for the 2:15 bin, home for a rest and Ally off to work.

Want to come and have another go but need a full day to work it out!

Thanks to Ally Hurst for another good climb off the Midi.

Chèré Couloir – Mont Blanc Du Tacul

May 22, 2013June 9, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / 2 Comments

After coming back from the UK on the 15th I was keen to start some alpine climbs. Going up the Midi on Sat 18th and being put off by howling winds and cloud I decided to give it a miss, and then with over a foot of snow falling at 3800m it was definitely a no! The following Monday we saw there was some good weather but I only had until 1:30pm to do anything because of work so decided to ski Grand Envers which turned out to be really good considering it is nearing the end of May.

After skiing Monday with Alistair we decided that because the weather the following day would not allow us to ski again, despite there being a couple of feet of snow up there now, we would aim for the Chèré Couloir on the Tuesday.

It was another work day for me but I managed to change with work and start at 3:20am and then have my second pick up at 6:10pm, this would give us all day for the climb, which we needed!

Tuesday morning we met up at the Midi at about 9 with the first lift going up at 9:30. Walking out on to the arete at 10 there were no tracks going down and alot of fresh snow, this already started to slow us down. After some whiteout navigating we arrived at the start of the climb at 12:00 with only two people just starting the 3rd pitch, there was so much snow!

My 100m trail breaking, with Ally doing the rest, as usual!

Just approaching the start, The Chèré Couloir is the obvious Ice route up the centre of the photo. Difficulty D 200m

Ally on the second pitch.

The conditions were excellent, with really good ice and snow for climbing. We didnt place any protection until I led the last pitch, just clipping on to a couple of pieces of cord on the side of the route.

Me leading my first big alpine route, I placed a couple of screws on this pitch as it was near vertical. Throughout the climb we were being pelted by powder snow avalanches and big spin drifts which resulted in us being very cold all day long and experiencing my first climbing hot aches and screaming a little!

After reaching the top of this last pitch it was on with the down jacket to wait for Ally to top out and start the decent.

To get back down you rappel the same couloir using the bolted belays on the left hand side, opposite side from the accent. There were a total of four raps with the fourth taking you back over the bergschrund way below the start of the climb.

Ally on the first of four rappels.

When we got back down over the schrund we had noticed that our track that we put into the climb had now completely disappeared and that we would have to put another one in to get back to the Midi. We had 2 1/2 hours until the last bin at 5:30pm left so we thought this would be plenty of time. Once again we only had a rough idea of where to go as it was still a complete whiteout with only the Cosmiques Arete coming into view every so often. The snow was even deeper than the morning and the going was slow and tiring.

The snow was over Ally’s knee and he isn’t a short man!

As we slowly got closer to the Midi we could start to hear the announcements over the tannoy that the last departure was in 30mins, then 15, then 10. At this point I rang the office to say that I might not be able to make my pick up at 6:10! This didn’t go down very well, and with a call back almost straight away saying that there was no one else to work it I knew we had to dig deep and get up the arete quickly, this was very hard work as there was no track in and well over a foot of snow. We made it to the top and into the cave at 5:28 and with a quick dash we just made the bin with moments to spare. Down the cable car and into my van and straight to work. This was a very long, very good and very challenging day of Alpine Climbing. Although there was a great deal of suffering throughout the day I loved every minute of it!

Mont Blanc 4,810m

August 13, 2012June 9, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / Leave a comment

A month had passed since Climbing Italy’s highest peak Gran Paradiso and I was getting bored with local cragging and wanted to do something BIG, Looking up I could see the biggest mountain in western Europe, Mont Blanc and though I should give it a go.

After speaking to a few friends who are experienced climbers and getting the general idea that the Gouter route was a straight forward scramble followed by a long snow walk I wanted to go it alone.

Having a few days off work and a great weather window I headed to Les Houches’ Bellvue cable car at 8am to start the climb. Getting the first lift up I started the long walk to the Gouter ridge scramble which goes past the Tete Rouse hut.

Chamonix looks very small from up here. Crossing the Grand Couloir on the ridge can be quite dangerous as there is often a lot of rock fall, I didn’t see any but I must have been lucky. I was straight across and carried on up the scramble to the refuge on the ridge.

Looking back down the ridge makes you feel very high and exposed. There are some wires in place to hold on to but it is an easy scramble and good fun.

At the top of the ridge you get to the snow line and the Gouter hut, I didn’t stay in the hut but bivied near it on the ridge, It is quite expensive to stay so I decided to just have food there so I could climb a little lighter. Food was still not cheap with 1l of water costing €5 and soup €7. It was however very filling and gave me the strength to make the summit!

I slept to the left of the new refuge with the other cheap skates in this shallow grave that someone who climbed a day before had left me!

It was cloudy in the evening and I thought I would have to head back down when I woke, but instead I woke up to the clearest sky I had ever seen and committed to bagging the summit.

Leaving the bivi at 1am with the hopes of being the first on the summit, I made good progress towards the Vallot hut at 4,350m and reached it at about 3:30am.

Chamonix twinkling away miles below just before I reached the Vallot hut. I climbed into it and slept for an hour because at this rate I would be on the summit way too early at about 4:30am! Leaving the hut again at 4:30am I carried on towards the summit. Not seeing anyone ahead was pleasing but also daunting knowing that if I slipped off the Bosses Ridge no one would see me go! I could just make out head torches below me heading up the Dome du Gouter and by now some leaving from near the Cosmiques refuge.

I had made it! Summit at 5:30am after some very slow climbing towards the top. It was freezing and very windy! I had my spare pair of socks over my gloves and didn’t want to take them off. I waited until I saw the first person on top with me and asked him to take a photo as I didn’t have the strength to work self timer, this was a good 15 minutes after I got there! The sun was coming up over the Alps but the flash still came on!

There was something very special about being on the roof of Europe alone at sunrise, It was by far the single biggest achievement of my life, way above my degree! The excitement was short lived as I knew what came next… The descent!

Coming back down from the summit early has its downsides, you meet all the people climbing up! I had to step off the main track countless amounts of times and some of the places I did it was not very safe, especially when you are not roped to anyone.

Just above the Vallot hut on my return I snapped this pic of sunrise. it really captures Alpine climbing and early mornings up high!

This warming sunshine kept me going back down to the Gouter to pack up my bivi and head back down to town.

The rock scramble down was fine but when I started walking the trails my feet really started to hurt and by the time I reached the Nid D’aiguille I was walking bare foot and swearing alot! Finally made it back to the lift and was down to town by midday, Very exhausted, craving a beer and overwhelmed with satisfaction that I had climbed Mont Blanc, and climbed it alone!

Gran Paradiso 4,061m

July 11, 2012June 9, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / Leave a comment

Keen to bag another Alpine summit I headed with a few friends to Italy to climb its highest mountain, Gran Paradiso. At 4,061m it would also be my first time above 4000m and a great start to my high altitude climbing career.

Going from Chamonix throught the Mont-Blanc tunnel we were straight into Italy and heading down the Autoroute towards Aosta. Turning up the Valsavarenche valley towards Pont we then arrived at the car park just below 2000m.

Keen and ready to go, Me, Iris, Gregor, Owen and Jo.

You head up the river on its left bank then follow signs for the Emmanuel refugio. This valley is beautiful and the path going up gives you great views of the surrounding mountains.

Gregor treking his way up to the refugio.

The refuge we were staying in was amazing, right next to a lake with a great view. The food was good and the beds were comfy.

Leaving the refugio at about 4:30am for the summit the going was quite fast, we were up to the snow line and had our crampons on within the hour and then began the plod. Straight away we were given fantastic views of the south side of the Mont Blanc massive.

There was a really good track leading all the way up the glacier and we kept a steady pace for the first half of the snow climb to about 3,600m.

Gregor again with a small que forming behind! The motivational talks began here!

Not far now Gregor, For a chain smoker with no acclimatisation he carried on going all the way up with no real complaints!

Summit pose! We were actually about 5m below the summit but with the amount of people scrambling about up there and the consequences of a fall being fatal, we decided this was high enough! After a few minutes at the summit we began the long 2000m+ descent back to the car and a well deserved beer!

Glad to have done my first 4000er and climbed a countries highest mountain, next stop Mont Blanc!

Aiguille du Tour 3,540m

June 28, 2012June 9, 2013 / joelevanschamonix / Leave a comment

With summer in full swing and being very keen to start some alpine climbs I meet up with James Clapham and his friend Jason to take on my first peak, Aiguille du Tour at 3,540m.

To get to the start of the route you arrive at Le Tour and head up to the left of the Le Tour glacier up the obvious path. This leads to the Albert Premier hut which you can stay in for a price. We opted to bivi just above the hut at about 2,800m near a small rock ridge.

It was a pretty sheltered spot but it did start to rain in the night and I woke up soaking wet and freezing cold at about 3am keen to get moving!

Setting off under head light at about 4:30am we plodded up the glacier to the start of the climb. Instead of climbing the classic summit route we opted to climb the Table couloir which is a grade or so higher and includes climbing up a 45-50′ couloir with a rock band in the middle and then traversing the ridge to the summit.

The route is shown in red.

Climbing this hard snow with one axe for my first time was very daunting and I was very nervous, especially during the rock band in the middle of the couloir.

James placed a few bits of gear in the rock band as there was a couple of tricky moves. We passed this fine and carried on up the couloir. At the top you head right towards the summit, traversing the ridge on both sides on rock and snow until you reach the summit.

For my first time walking in crampons and high altitude climbing there were some ropey moments, like walking across this exposed ridge!

Arriving at the summit at about 7:30/8 we just beat the crowds that had climbed the classic route.

Classic summit pose, Pleased to have completed my first alpine route.

The descent followed the traditional route down the swiss side, back on to the Le Tour glacier and then back down to Le Tour. It was very hot on the way down and I ended up being very sunburt after shaving my head the day before!

Thanks to James and Jason.

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Joel Evans

SKI . CLIMB . CHAMONIX

Climbing