After completing a number of Alpine mixed routes over the last couple of months I decided to take a step in a different direction and climb a route I have been looking at for over a year. Frison-Roche is a sport rock route under the top station at Brevent.
With a sunny sunday off work Me and Katariina headed up the top of Brevent at first bin 8:15, so that we could avoid the crowds and the hot sun. We arrived at the bottom of the route just before 9am and started up the first pitch, 6a slab.
The route is 220m in 6 pitches with the hardest pitch being 6a.
Katsu at the bottom of the route ready to go!
I Led the first pitch as it was the 6a slab and the crux move was hard! I hadn’t been on rock for over a month and going straight onto this was a challenge!
Kat coming over the top of the first pitch.
We had the whole first half of the route to ourselves, and the only other people we saw climbing it passed us when we stopped after the 4th pitch for some food. This was a surprise as it is a popular route.
Kat led the 2nd and 3rd pitch which were 5b and 5c, these pitches moved back towards the right and then up to the start of the crux corner pitch.
After some food I started up the 4th, crux pitch. After not climbing for a while and Kat being a relative new comer we found this one very hard. I struggled with the lead and made it up very pumped and exhausted then Kat gave me a lesson in Finnish swear words as she came up second!
Me leading the 4th crux pitch, and Kat coming up second.
The 5th pitch is a short traverse left to the final 6th pitch.
The final pitch was real good fun, a nice 5b corner with some great climbing. We were both very tired by this point but we made it up with time to grab the lunchtime deal at Zatzuki.
As kat was heading back to FInland I offered to take her up her 1st 4k peak. Mont Blanc du Tacul is a nice 2 hour climb from the Midi and you reach 4248m. Finishing up the Cosmiques arete, (Again!) we had a nice sunny day up the mountains to finish off Kats Chamonix summer!