Mont Blanc du Tacul – 4,248m

Another first bin at the Aiguille du Midi except this time I am with Emily because last night I convinced her to come up Mont Blanc du Tacul with me.

After climbing with Ally yesterday you could see the amount of people that were still going up with skis, so as I had today off work and the weather looked good until the early afternoon I though I should give it a go as I have not been up there before and I still don’t want to put my skis away!

Arriving at the Midi at 7:30 there was no one there but then by 7:45 there was easily a few bins worth of climbers and skiers waiting to go up, well worth getting there 15 minutes earlier and eat breakfast at the front of the line!

IMG_0038

The Aiguille du Midi at 7:35!

At the top by 8:30 and a quick ski to the start of the climb just to the right of the Triangle. There is a over 600m of vertical from the Col to the summit, and then you have to climb back up the Midi arete when you have skied back down.

Picture 2

This climb has to be done early and quite quickly because the snow warms up quickly in the sun and also there is a lot of exposure above you on the first half of the climb, very big seracs looming above.

DSCN3789

Have to make it a quick drink of water!

The going was quite good to start off with then Emily started to feel the altitude a little when we were over 3900m, this only slowed us down a little.

IMG_0043

Emily charging up with the Sallanches valley way in the background.

Just as we were over the 4000m mark the clouds started to move in, I could see the summit at this point and it looked very close. The wind had also picked up and it became very cold. Emily had said that if I wanted to go to bag the summit that she would have waited where we had got to which was around 4100/4150m judging by where the summit was. I didn’t fancy it, by this point you could only see it every now and then and it was not looking like it would improve.

IMG_0047

The summit just before the clouds came in, we went a little closer than this.

We then decided just to head back down before we couldn’t see a thing, we still had over 500m of decent with big seracs and crevasses to negotiate.

The snow on the way back down was pretty good considering it hadn’t warmed much and was still quite firm. There was no crust and you could even kick up some snow with more aggressive turns.

Picture 1

There were lots of patches of untouched snow that was much nicer than the chopped up walking and skin track parts.

IMG_0054

Overall the guide book says its 30/40′ slopes on the descent, it was not very steep overall but with a lots of clear danger you still had to take care where you were going!

I think we made a good decision by turning around, as we noticed that many of the other skiers that had set out from the first few lifts had aso turned back just before the summit and speaking to others in the lift after, only people staying at the Cosmiques refuge and lycra clad ski-mo types made it to the top before the clouds came in. Arriving back at the Midi at 1:45 it was a white out, we just made it up the arete in the last bit of sunshine.

It looked a lot different at 9am!

DCIM100GOPRO

Another quality day up the Midi and its definitely  something I will have to go and finish off, Maybe next week!

Serac Gully- Tacul Triangle (Attempt)

Setting off at 8am with Ally Hurst again, this time it was sunshine all day! First bin up the Midi we were hoping to climb the Serac Gully on the Mont Blanc du Tacul, after Ally saw it looked in good condition a couple days before.

Picture 2

There is now a good sized track down the arete so we made to the start of the climb by 9:30. We then noticed that there were no obvious belays so Ally had to set one up before starting the first pitch, things were looking good.

IMG_0028

Ally on the first pitch.

This route is much smaller than the Chere which I climbed with Ally two weeks ago and was a real test of my climbing skills. It was a very narrow gully with thin ice and not much protection, Ally managed to place a few wires, cams and screws in whatever he could find as a lot of the ice was breaking off with one hit of the axe. This resulted in quite a timely climb despite us not actually gaining much height, and me getting pelted with falling ice for most of the climb!

After I came up the first pitch we noticed that the second, crux pitch was looking a little bare higher up, and with a hard move to start I didn’t feel comfortable having a go.

Ally tried to go up, to see how it was and made it up most of the pitch before he decided that it would take too long and it was getting very tricky. He made it up to some cord that was already there with a crab on so we decided to rap back down using that. In the picture below you can see how far he made it!

IMG_0032

One 60m rap back down to the snow and we had a nice bit of lunch before heading back up the Midi, as usual I was a bit behind Ally but he did summit Mt Blanc last week so is more acclimatised, my excuse! I finally made it back up for the 2:15 bin, home for a rest and Ally off to work.

IMG_0036

Want to come and have another go but need a full day to work it out!

Thanks to Ally Hurst for another good climb off the Midi.

Testing next years touring set-up

Me and Graham headed up above the Emosson Dam close to the Swiss boarder at 7am on Thursday with the plan of touring the  Pointe de L’Ifala after seeing that Charlie Boscoe, Chamonix Conditions, had skied it a few days before. Heading up early so that we could start our descent before 10/11 so that we had the best snow. We immediately  ran into problems when the security guard would not let us walk the road to the start of the route. We then had to try and find another route over a small shoulder hoping we could get back to the road further around, this did not work out to plan.

IMG_0020

IMG_0021

I really wanted to get out on my new skis so that I could have a good idea of how they skied before next winter. I managed to get a pair of the 2009 K2 Coomba in 188 for a bargain and already having a pair of Plum Guide bindings I thought this would make a good set up. Plum had sent me the brand new 2013/14 Plum Guide as my pins had come out of my older ones, this was for free which was a nice surprise! They look very similar to me apart from half the toe piece being a nice matte black now! No blurb has been released about any other changes.

DSCF9085

From the Dam car park you cross the Dam and head up the obvious valley in front of you. As we didn’t make it to the start I cant really comment on the route it self but we managed to make a few turn on the face directly opposite the dam.

IMG_0007

DSCF9092

I though the skies were really good and even though they are 14mm wider than my previous touring skis the K2 Wayback they skied very similar. Maybe its because I had a few tips from Graham!

DSCF9098

The snow was hard work on any traverse with it being quite soft but by the time we skied down it was some nice spring corn, and generally good fun!

We were back at the car by 9:30 after being pretty disappointed that we didn’t do what we set out to but it was fun to be skiing in June!

Thanks to Graham Pinkerton for the company and the ride.

 

The Winter that keeps on giving!

With over 80cm of snow falling at 3800m over the last 48 hours and with a forecast of Cloudy with Sunny spells, Me and Katsu decided to at least go and have a look up the Midi!

On arrival and after speaking to some local skiers in the bubble who were all heading down the Rond, we thought that it would be a safe bet doing the Gros Rognon, which was really good on monday.

After a short, snowy walk down the arete we had our skis on and the clouds came in.

Picture 3

Skis on and the short steep face to the col was good fun, nice and deep, then we hit the heavy flat snow which leads to the top of the Rognon. This was hard going and almost required skins! After about 15-20 mins we were back on the steeper stuff again and there were no tracks in sight!

Picture 4

Katsu doing her portion of the trail breaking!

Once we were at the top of the steeper face we were in the clouds again. we decided to wait it out rather than waste the ski in complete whiteout.

Ten mins later we had a small window so quickly made our way down the bottom of the face.

Picture 1

The snow was almost up to my waist and although it was not light, it was fresh and it just took a little bit more concentration and strength to ski fast!

Picture 2

As Katsu found out!

Picture 6

She nailed it after a couple of tumbles! Nice big turns in complete silence.

DCIM100GOPRO

It was nice to look back at a popular route and only see two tracks, and when one of them is your own!

We had a little more hard work in deep snow to get back to a track that someone had put in from the Petit Envers and then it was smooth sailing all the way back to the ladders at Montenvers.

Still cant believe it is May!! No summer for Chamonix this year!

Day 100 skiing- The (other) Cosmiques Couloir

My first day up the hill this winter was on October 31st up Le Tour hiking with a snowboard, and 7 months later I am still on it, and with Powder!

After Tuesdays epic at the Chèré couloir we noticed that the Cosmiques Couloir on the south face of the arête was full of snow and looked like a good ski. Me and Ally then went about trying to find out some information about it and asking around to see if anyone we knew had skied it, but all we could find is that it is a 200m PD climb that is a little short cut on the Cosmiques arête.

Picture 1

Taking this into  account and seeing that it is only 40-45′ we decided to give it a go.

Thursday morning looked like there would be some good weather and with Ally working at 13:30 we knew we had to be at Montenvers by 13:00 at the latest!

We started the route with a reverse of the Cosmiques arête by climbing over the platform and then doing to 30m raps down a couple of chimneys.

Picture 1

IMG_0558

Picture 3

Because this route isn’t often reversed we did loose a sling and a couple of pieces of cord for our belays.

After we completed the raps we had a short traverse over to the start of the couloir.

IMG_0148

65653_10152847617825626_1914538761_n

At only 200m long it is not very big but it narrows towards the bottom and was a really good ski and a good extension to the Vallee Blanche!

IMG_0159

Due to this couloir being south facing there was a risk of avalanche so I decided to traverse along some footsteps to the other side and rope up for 15m to test out the snow. There was a lot of sluff but I was able to avoid being taken down and made nice powder turns all the way down to the bottom.

Picture 4

Ally coming to the bottom of the couloir. Getting to the bottom we realised that we had less than 1 hour to be at the train, this made rushing down the glacier in complete white out very scary.

When we got to Montenvers we noticed that the gondola wasn’t running and that Ally had 15 minutes to get up the ladders and onto the train, he just made it.

Picture 5

Being the good friend I am I offered to carry his ski’s, 30m rope and skins all the way up the ladders which was very hard going, there was a big group of slow kids going up the main ladder route so I took the more exposed rock ledge. This was a nice hard return from a top class day skiing!

Chèré Couloir – Mont Blanc Du Tacul

After coming back from the UK on the 15th I was keen to start some alpine climbs. Going up the Midi on Sat 18th and being put off by howling winds and cloud I decided to give it a miss, and then with over a foot of snow falling at 3800m it was definitely  a no! The following Monday we saw there was some good weather but I only had until 1:30pm to do anything because of work so decided to ski Grand Envers which turned out to be really good considering it is nearing the end of May.

970495_10152838547915626_850731828_n

After skiing Monday with Alistair we decided that because the weather the following day would not allow us to ski again, despite there being a couple of feet of snow up there now, we would aim for the Chèré Couloir on the Tuesday.

It was another work day for me but I managed to change with work and start at 3:20am and then have my second pick up at 6:10pm, this would give us all day for the climb, which we needed!

Tuesday morning we met up at the Midi at about 9 with the first lift going up at 9:30. Walking out on to the arete at 10 there were no tracks going down and alot of fresh snow, this already started to slow us down. After some whiteout navigating we arrived at the start of the climb at 12:00 with only two people just starting the 3rd pitch, there was so much snow!

IMG_0131

My 100m trail breaking, with Ally doing the rest, as usual!

securedownload

Just approaching the start, The Chèré Couloir is the obvious Ice route up the centre of the photo. Difficulty D 200m

securedownload-5

Ally on the second pitch.

The conditions were excellent, with really good ice and snow for climbing. We didnt place any protection until I led the last pitch, just clipping on to a couple of pieces of cord on the side of the route.

IMG_0137

Me leading my first big alpine route, I placed a couple of screws on this pitch as it was near vertical. Throughout the climb we were being pelted by powder snow avalanches and big spin drifts which resulted in us being very cold all day long and experiencing my first climbing hot aches and screaming a little!

After reaching the top of this last pitch it was on with the down jacket to wait for Ally to top out and start the decent.

To get back down you rappel the same couloir using the bolted belays on the left hand side, opposite side from the accent. There were a total of four raps with the fourth taking you back over the bergschrund way below the start of the climb.

securedownload-2

Ally on the first of four rappels.

When we got back down over the schrund we had noticed that our track that we put into the climb had now completely disappeared and that we would have to put another one in to get back to the Midi. We had 2 1/2 hours until the last bin at 5:30pm left so we thought this would be plenty of time. Once again we only had a rough idea of where to go as it was still a complete whiteout with only the Cosmiques Arete coming into view every so often. The snow was even deeper than the morning and the going was slow and tiring.

securedownload-3

The snow was over Ally’s knee and he isn’t a short man!

As we slowly got closer to the Midi we could start to hear the announcements over the tannoy that the last departure was in 30mins, then 15, then 10. At this point I rang the office to say that I might not be able to make my pick up at 6:10! This didn’t go down very well, and with a call back almost straight away saying that there was no one else to work it I knew we had to dig deep and get up the arete quickly, this was very hard work as there was no track in and well over a foot of snow. We made it to the top and into the cave at 5:28 and with a quick dash we just made the bin with moments to spare. Down the cable car and into my van and straight to work. This was a very long, very good and very challenging day of Alpine Climbing. Although there was a great deal of suffering throughout the day I loved every minute of it!

Col des Cristaux

Another sunny day in the mountains with Alistair Hurst, this time we headed up the Argentiere basin with our aim being to ski the North-east Couloir of the Col des Cristaux. I headed up to attempt this two weeks ago but turned around about a third of the way up due to heavy snow and a lack of motivation to boot pack the whole thing on my own. Luckily today I had Ally to run up the thing before me with his long legs, he was at the top one hour before me!

Picture 1

Photo taken from google.

Getting first bin on the Grand Montet we were putting our skins on by 9:15 and started heading up the glacier with about 10/15 other people also going to ski some of the steeps up the basin.

IMG_0068

It was hot from the word go with shells off straight away and still being too hot. After an hour of nice easy skinning we were at the bottom of the Col with three people who had just crossed the bergschrund in front of us. Ally thought the boot pack didn’t look that hard with there being some good steps in already when he said about 45 min to an hour I knew that wasn’t realistic for me but it was spot on for him.

IMG_0465

Ally looking back down the Col after reaching the top with me just right of center just over half way. It looks a long way down from here and with rocks below you cant really afford a fall, we skied the left hand ridge and then half way down we traverse to the right of the boot pack, the first half was steeper probably closer to 50′ with it getting a little less steep on the lower right hand face.

IMG_0468

Ally had a nice hour in the sun while waiting for me to get to the top so he took some nice pictures, this ridge line photo shows the steepness of the Col.

The guy on the right was hit by an avalanche on the lower half which took him about 100m and over the schrund, he skied away fine with his sunglasses on his head, lucky escape!

IMG_0469

The view over the top looking towards Mont Blanc and the Grand Jorasses on the left. This was just after midday and the sun was belting down on us at this point which made the last few steps very hard!

IMG_0071

Ally dropping in below the big cornice, I opted to rap the first 30m so I could avoid negotiating the rocks at the top.

IMG_0486

After putting the rope back in my bag while trying to stay in one place on the face I had a look down at what I had to ski and the nerves set in!

Only making a half dozen turns in the top 200m of the Col my confidence came back just as the snow became very mixed. It was a combination of hard wind blown snow, deep heavy slush and wind slab which made for difficult slow going skiing.

IMG_0493

Just after jumping the Bergschrund, carrying a lot of speed into the heavy slush which I still have not found a way to ski properly.

No great turn photos from today as we just wanted to get down and there was no deep powder for the classic fun day out ski photos, It was overall a really good tour which didnt require too much effort, and it is nice to have done another Chamonix steep.

Thanks to Alistair for some good photos.

Col Des Nantillons

Todays main objective was to ski the Spencer Couloir which is on the North face of the Aiguille de Blaitiere. I can see this ski line from my balcony and have had my eyes set on it since I changed to Skiing in January. It has only just come into condition as there are a couple of rock bands that have now have good snow cover.

spencer

Meting up with Alistair Hurst at the Midi at 8am there were some clouds over the face but the forecast was for clear skies so we headed up in the cool shade which was nice for the hour long skin to the start of the bootpack.

IMG_0431

The snow was refrozen slush which was not to bad to climb and there was already a reasonable track in which made the going fast.

When we got to the bottom of the slope we saw some tracks going up the Contamine couloir so decided that would be our best line of accent, so  Alistair started the bootpack with his long old legs, which made it a breeze for me!

IMG_0047

This was the start of what turned out to be a very long 800m bootpack that took nearly 4 hours, with me breaking trail for about 50m. Ally needs the training!

IMG_0432

More boot packing, this time with me doing some of the hard work.

IMG_0434

Getting closer to the top with an amazing view back down to the Valley floor, I can almost see my house from here!

As we got to just below the Spencer Couloir start we came across some windblown snow that had covered up some very big holes.

After Ally nearly lost a leg into one we decided to rope up and have another go at crossing the Bergschrund, this still led to Ally nearly going into a big hole. With time creeping up on us we decided to bail on the Spencer at 2:45pm and just enjoy the powder on the decent without any crevasse rescue.

IMG_0437

There was a good covering of firm powder on the steeper slopes with glacial ice being uncovered when you put in the harder turns.

IMG_0442

Nice to get some powder after 5 hours of climbing!

IMG_0053

Ally putting in some nice quick jump turns on one of the steeper sections.

IMG_0058

The good snow continued all the way back down the the bottom of the face, until you hit the slush on the moraine.

IMG_0062

A short 15m rappel and we were off the face and started the long slushy traverse back to Plan D’Aiguille.

IMG_0063

The traverse had a few surprises in store for us including a number of big holes below heating rocks and some very slushy snow.

This hole Ally fell in started a slide that went on for a good 100m and was about 1m deep, a close call at the end of a long day.

IMG_0066

The hole above is at the top of this big slide.

Getting back to the mid station at 4:30pm we had 30mins before we would have had to walk down, so we were glad that we didnt push on trying to cross the Schrund.

A great decent that is well earned after the 1000m of climbing. Next time we just have to do the Spencer…

Cosmiques Couloir

Entering my 3rd month of skiing I thought it was about time to raise the stakes, so when ‘Cautious Tom’ Grant offered to take me down the Cosmiques Couloir  off the Aiguille Du Midi I jumped at the opportunity.

Having done a couple of Plan D’aiguille laps with Tom the day before I felt safe entering the high mountains with Cautious Tom of UK Climbing mag fame!

186859

Toms lunch break was the only time we had so 12-4pm, so after some careful queue jumping at the midi station we were on our way by 12:10.

After a short traverse  and a 5 min bootpack we were at the start of the couloir. The rappel start was some 15m down and with the risk of a fall being almost certain death I opted to down climb to Tom who was setting up the rap.

IMG_0002

I am not yet confident enough on skis to side slip 50′ slopes so Tom opted to save time by lowering me down the full 60m of the rope. Being lowered backwards down a seemingly endless couloir was one of the most intimidating things that I have ever done! But then when you get somewhere where you still don’t feel confident skiing freely and hearing “thats the end of the rope” was allot worse!

Picture 5

As Tom rapped the 30m down to the skiable slope I slowly but steadily side slipped down a further 10m before putting in my first turn on a 45-50′ slope. Which went well and boosted my confidence.

IMG_0006

The snow on the top 400m was nice to ski and felt good under foot, then the second half was a little less tracked out and we found some nice patches of powder.

cosmiques

When the Bossons Glacier came close and into view I knew I was safe and I was chuffed I had skied the couloir with out having fallen.

Picture 6

Some traversing later and we had arrived at the top of the Para face with only a dozen tracks going down it, A nice Powder reward after an Epic afternoon.

IMG_0017

A bit of bushwacking, skis on/ skis off and we were being chased out of the pikey camp by a bunch of dogs finding ourselves parting ways at the Grepon car park, Tom to go back to work for the evening and me to go and get a well deserved beer and to let that ski decent sink in. All together my best ski decent to date and an Epic afternoon.

Col du Chardonnet- Blue sky and powder…

So here goes nothing with my first blog.

Sunday 17th February.

After a few days of snow fall the clouds finally cleared on the saturday and working all day meant that  it would be well tracked out by the sunday, so a tour was in order to get some fresh. After eyeing up the Col Du Chardonnet for a while but having no one to do it with I managed to convince a snowboarder friend to tag along, with him borrowing my split board and me being on skis for my second ski tour.

We had some nice choppy powder down to the glacier and then started the skin. There were two tracks in place, one to either side of the glacier and we opted for the left had track as it would see the sun sooner and it was well below zero. After 2 1/2 hours we had reached the Col, with this being at 3323m  the last half hour of climbing was quite hard after not climbing at altitude since the summer.

Picture 1

The route up and down was very similar. The col is between the Aiguille du Chardonnet and the Aiguillette D’Argentiere.

We were considering taking on the Three Cols but as there were loads of tracks going over the back we thought we would have much better skiing going back down the South-West face as the only tracks on that face were the ones going up!

IMG_1797

Just reaching the Col, the going was tough up there!

The snow on the decent was amazing, about 30-50cm  and so light, we had over 800m vertical of fresh powder, which was well worth the effort on the assent. Finishing back with a blast down the home run at Grand Montets we were back in town by about 2:30pm.

IMG_1812

Only the skin track to be seen!

IMG_1829

Missed the photo!

IMG_1835

Fresh snow down the the glacier…

A really nice, easy ski tour with great rewards. Recommended.

Until next time.